Bridge over the Vienne...

In near gale force winds yesterday afternoon, we braved a walk along the bank of the Vienne at Dangé St Romain.

By the bridge was a notice recounting the history of its construction. Surprisingly it was only in 1971 that the two communities, Dangé on the right bank and Saint Romain on the left, were united to become one town, Dangé  Saint Romain.

Prior to the bridge's construction a ferry was used to take passengers and animals across the river. Various schemes to fund a bridge were suggested, including holding a raffle with the proceeds being split between prizes, assistance for the needy and the construction of a bridge. However it wasn't until the coming of the railway in 1853 that the idea of a bridge became a firm proposition. The Orleans Railway company invested heavily in the building of the bridge and the first stone was laid in 1857.

The bridge remained a toll bridge until 1879. During the Second World War it was badly damaged. The French destroyed one arch in 1940, in an attempt to halt the progress of the enemy and then a second arch was destroyed by the Germans in 1944. A temporary wooden bridge was put in place until the stone one could be reconstructed. This was only completed in 1961.

A fascinating history of a bridge we cross each time we visit friends in South Touraine, and otherwise we take for granted.

The Cross, set on the bridge between  Dangé  and St Romain

Perhaps, when we cross over it in future, we'll spare a thought for all those involved in its planning, construction, defence and subsequent reconstruction.

Pilgrims (lengthy) Progress!

If you read Jim's blog, loirevalleyexperiences you may have seen that we met up with Jim and Pauline and their friends yesterday afternoon to join a party visiting the Abbaye Royale Saint-Michel de Bois Aubry.

The other party were sixteen members of a local history society in L'Ile Bouchard and, true to French form, they were 'fashionably late' for the three o'clock meeting.

Our guide was the owner of the Abbaye, which has been in private hands since 2006. His knowledge and enthusiasm were faultless. As the visit was conducted in french a high level of concentration was required. This was fine at first but nearly three and a half hours later we were all finding it very difficult to keep up - not least because it had gone dark by this time!

 
Nothing daunted, Monsieur continued his description of every stone, nook and cranny by torchlight (thanks to one or two resourceful members of the party who chanced to be carrying torches!) We studied gargoyles, columns and carvings.

We imagined the monks of bygone times welcoming pilgrims on their way to Saint-Jaques de Compostelle. We considered the custom of washing the feet of these souls and providing food and herbal medicine for the poor and sick.

We climbed the tower, all 150 steps, with complete disregard to health and safety.

 

We edged past unfenced stairwells (in the dark) leading down to the crypt and we stood in buildings propped up with huge timber structures.

 

We followed in crocodile fashion across a field to visit the cemetery (possibly more of this from Jim at some point!)

And finally we limped back to our cars in the darkness, wiser (yes, I think so) but frozen to the bone and dying for a cup of tea! We had certainly had our money's worth and I for one am very glad we went.

I went to write a comment in the visitors book but the pen had run out..... I think it was trying to tell us something!

Footnote.
During the visit were given three reasons why the steeple is offset, my favourite of these was that when Christ was on the cross his head was to one side and hence offset.

Jardin des Ramparts, Thouars

A day out last month took us through Thouars, a medieval city situated in western France in the Poitou-Charentes region. It stands on a rocky outcrop above the right bank of the River Thouars, a tributary of the Loire.

We took a walk round the Jardin des Ramparts set on a steeply sloping site, overlooking the river. What a delightful garden it is!

It's history is rather more brutal. On May 5th 1793 the Vendée army attacked this north-western part of the ramparts. The destruction caused allowed the invading Rochejoquelein to enter the town.

The garden, built on land owned by local historian Hugues Imbert, makes good use of the site. Planting is set against the backdrop of the ramparts and along sinewy paths, which are alarmingly steep in places!

For those who feel like braving the gradient, there is a glimpse of the river down below through the trees.

For most, though, it is a place to come and relax and enjoy the beauty and tranquillity. And judging from the day of our visit, it is well appreciated, as indeed it deserves to be.

Loudun (18km from Braye) A first impression.

The last time I was in Loudun was back in November 2010 looking for Diesel at every possible service station. With no success I might add.

Loudun goes back to the stone age as described in the picture below.

If I had lived in the early times I could see myself worshipping a god with a name like LUG. He was the most popular and widely worshipped of the Celtic gods. Lug's name in its various forms was taken by the cities of Lyons, Loudun, Laon, Leon, Lieden, Leignitz, Carlisle and Vienna.

Loudun has some very interesting architecture and a few of the historic buildings are shown below.

 

 

 

 

 

The last of the pictures is the entrance to the Eglise Saint-Pierre du Marche and is one of the most decoratively carved I have ever seen. We will blog about the church in the near future. 

Our first impression of Loudun was that it is well worth a visit and the tourist information office is excellent. We will be returning as soon as time allows to explore more of its history. 

Richelieu comes to life!

Jean and Nick paid us a visit the other day and in the course of the conversation we talked about Brocantes and Vide Greniers, the French equivalent of our craft fairs and car boot sales. The point was made that we don't see them in the village or for that matter in Richelieu.

Then on May day Colin and I went into Richelieu and lo and behold there was a brocante and vide grenier in full flow! The town had come to life with stalls in every conceivable place.

 

............The imaginatively decorated comité des fêtes caught our eye... (!)

Yes; well..

The cafes were doing a good trade

and there were fairground rides and attractions for the children

The smallest bumper cars we've ever seen!

That will teach us to criticise the lack of such events in our local town! I only wish the day had been more widely advertised as we only came upon it by chance. Next year we'll be prepared!

Chinon

This morning we had a stroll round the lovely town of Chinon. It takes us about twenty minutes in the car travelling north from Braye sous Faye and it is a real gem.

We usually park up by the fortress and take the glass lift down into the town. The view en route is amazing.

Chinon was at its best in the sunshine today with its stalls selling fruit and vegetables.

I particularly liked the little arrangements of mugeut des bois this stall holder was selling.

We walked through the back streets admiring the quirky architecture of the town.

 

 

The narrow streets and the tree filled square provide welcome shade and the opportunity to sit with a coffee and watch the world go by.

Then it was back for  a spot of shopping and window gazing... 

Chinon has some lovely little shops, always with attractive window displays, even if it's only needles and thread they are selling!